Exumas

The Exumas:

The islands sure have gotten developed since I was here as a kid, but they are still just as beautiful. Unfortunately they are crowded too, but that may just be a result of the time of year we are here. This does leave me scratching my head as we have nightly temps in the 60’s which make it hard to get excited to go for a leisurely snorkel, why would anyone come here at the coldest time of the year? As I am writing this we are anchored at Big Majors Spot (Staniel Cay). When we were as kids I only recall a few boats around us, but right now we are surrounded by at least 20 boats here, another half dozen at Sampson Cay, and more yet at Staniel itself. There have been at least 2 mega yachts over 100’ at each place we drop the hook (proof the rich keep getting richer).

                Other noteworthy observations: the beach with the once friendly pigs at Big Majors is no longer safe to land a dinghy. There are now upwards of 5 pigs guarding this beach who will greet you all the way out in the anchorage. One pig swam to the boat today, at least 300 yards. When we attempted to land on the beach a squeeling 300lb+ heffer promptly boarded our inflatable and began gnawing on Laura’s (who was screaming bloody murder) arm. I , trying to contain my laughter, forced the large pig off of our craft and promptly left the beach.

Other Exuma observations: powerboats account for probably 25% of boats we see cruising. Canadians make up the vast majority of flags we see, apparently Americans can only afford huge yachts or nothing. Traveling the Exuma banks is similar to boat traffic in the FL ICW, powerboats will pass with huge wakes within 20’ of your boat, even though land is barely in sight. Sailors don’t have a clue who gives right of way. The days of electronic nav makes everyone follow the same waypoints and therefore creates crowded lanes. Every sarcastic thing I have read in magazines, cruising guides and the internet regarding crowd effect of anchorages, and bad VHF use has been true…the Exumas at this time of year are way too much like the overcrowded FL waterways with people whom you wonder how they made it here. I look forward to non peak season in this area. Laura has observed that she waves to everyone, and no one waves back. She says hi to everyone, and they just stare, and that the cruising community is not a bunch of friendly folks like she read online.