Georgetown, Exumas

Overlooking the anchorages at Georgetown from the top of the monument

George Town is the cruising capital of the Bahamas, and is also known as chicken harbor. Why it became such a popular spot I really cannot understand. There really is no protected anchorage accessible by anything other than very shallow draft boats, the water is generally murky and choppy. However the grocery store is excellent, and fresh water is free. We had planned to spend a few days here catching up on email and doing some boat chores as well as restocking the fridge. However our stay got extended when I went to change the engine oil and discovered some salt deposits running down the engine block. I traced the salt deposits back to the raw water oil cooler which appeared to be leaking around its end cap. Well that didn’t look too bad, I figured Id just pull the cap off and repair or replace the seal. When the cap came off it was a different scenario. 

Not Good.

The sealing surface had corroded very badly and was pitted nearly 1/8” from what I could see with it still installed. In attempt to repair I picked at the pits a bit and scraped loose debris away, and then used JB Water Weld to try and seal the end cap back on. A 10Pm test run indicated that I had made the problem worse, now it wasn’t just salt water leaking, but also oil. I knew this would suck. First thing Monday morning we went ashore to look up where I could buy another oil cooler, and how I would have to ship it to George Town. Fortunately the Volvo dealer in the US had one in stock and was able to overnight it to an air freight company that leaves FL for George Town every Wednesday. So by noon Thursday I had my part in hand, and had it back on the engine by 3pm. Not too bad for being out in the Bahamas, although the cost of $1500 really sucked and will cut out any fun shore excursions we may have wanted in the future.

                Fortunately while waiting on parts in George Town we made some friends on other boats and shared some dinners and drinks and had 2 great fires on the beach. On Saturday the 28 of January we finally got out of George Town and buddy boated on over to Long Island with Jaime and Channing of Bokeelia, FL.

Great to meet such nice people!

 The trip was an awesome calm water sail with just enough wind to keep our fat boat on the move. Unfortunately we didn’t catch any fish. But once we dropped the anchor off of Hog Cay we set out to some surrounding rock patches in hunt of lobster. About 2 hours later Jaime and Channing had scored 2 nice sized lobster and 1 slipper lobster, and I got us 1 larger lobster that fed Laura and I for 2 meals.

                We took a morning dinghy ride in hunt of blue holes and bone fish up Joe’s Sound. We located 2 blue holes, and saw a few bones in passing. Later on we moved a few miles and anchored off of Cape Santa Maria. Here we took a little hike up to the monument for Columbus. Reportedly the Santa Maria ran aground on this cape while Columbus was exploring the new world. I spent a few hours snorkeling the awesome rock and reef formations off of the cape, but only came back with some pictures of 6 spotted eagle rays which fallowed me for quite a while. Back in the anchorage a tiny sail boat had anchored next to us, and I felt compelled to go see what was up. On board this boat which was no longer than 22’ was a German fellow. I began chatting with him, and soon learned that he had departed Germany several years ago, crossed the Atlantic, sailed up the east coast, through the Hudson and back down the Mississippi and Ten Tomb rivers to the Gulf Coast. He was stopping for the night before setting off to Great Inagua and the on to Panama. This tiny boat, the man and his stories easily qualify as the wackiest and most adventurous sailor/ human I have come across.

The Columbus Monument off Cape Santa Maria, named after the ship which ran around on the shallow reef just below.

A school of Spotted Eagle Rays off Cape Santa Maria.

Very graceful creatures.

                Long Island seems like a wonderful place, and like Andros Island we hope to return here one day to enjoy the peaceful and bountiful waters. There are tons of reefs, bays, and estuaries that need further exploring, but for now our plan is to get south, and we have a weather window to make use of. Tonights big decision while eating Lobster Alfredo will be whether or not to shoot straight for Great Inagua and then on to the Dominican Rep, or if we should enjoy some more of Long/ Crooked/ Acklins Islands.

Exumas

The Exumas:

The islands sure have gotten developed since I was here as a kid, but they are still just as beautiful. Unfortunately they are crowded too, but that may just be a result of the time of year we are here. This does leave me scratching my head as we have nightly temps in the 60’s which make it hard to get excited to go for a leisurely snorkel, why would anyone come here at the coldest time of the year? As I am writing this we are anchored at Big Majors Spot (Staniel Cay). When we were as kids I only recall a few boats around us, but right now we are surrounded by at least 20 boats here, another half dozen at Sampson Cay, and more yet at Staniel itself. There have been at least 2 mega yachts over 100’ at each place we drop the hook (proof the rich keep getting richer).

                Other noteworthy observations: the beach with the once friendly pigs at Big Majors is no longer safe to land a dinghy. There are now upwards of 5 pigs guarding this beach who will greet you all the way out in the anchorage. One pig swam to the boat today, at least 300 yards. When we attempted to land on the beach a squeeling 300lb+ heffer promptly boarded our inflatable and began gnawing on Laura’s (who was screaming bloody murder) arm. I , trying to contain my laughter, forced the large pig off of our craft and promptly left the beach.

Other Exuma observations: powerboats account for probably 25% of boats we see cruising. Canadians make up the vast majority of flags we see, apparently Americans can only afford huge yachts or nothing. Traveling the Exuma banks is similar to boat traffic in the FL ICW, powerboats will pass with huge wakes within 20’ of your boat, even though land is barely in sight. Sailors don’t have a clue who gives right of way. The days of electronic nav makes everyone follow the same waypoints and therefore creates crowded lanes. Every sarcastic thing I have read in magazines, cruising guides and the internet regarding crowd effect of anchorages, and bad VHF use has been true…the Exumas at this time of year are way too much like the overcrowded FL waterways with people whom you wonder how they made it here. I look forward to non peak season in this area. Laura has observed that she waves to everyone, and no one waves back. She says hi to everyone, and they just stare, and that the cruising community is not a bunch of friendly folks like she read online.

Andros

Insight on Andros:

We did not spend nearly enough time in Andros island. Hopefully Andros will wait and not get spoiled until we can afford a nice 3’ draft catamaran to fully explore the island. Andros Island has the worlds 3^rd largest barrier reef. The interior of this entire reef is passable by sailboat, but is a bit too much of a nailbiter for us to travel with nearly 6’ draft. A catamaran would be nice so that one doesn’t get tossed around too much in the many unprotected anchorages behind the reef. That being said, the area is awesome. I got my first ever lobster there. In all the years I have snorkeled I have yet to get myself a lobster, and at Andros I snorkeled for 5 minutes, killed 4 lion fish and got 2 lobster. Aquatically there is just so much to see and do at this one island it is amazing. And ashore I couldn’t find the people more pleasant. The customs agents were 2 young guys about my age who met me at the bar in shorts and T’s, super laid back and a total contrast to Bimini.

                Offshore fishing we are 0 for 2. While approaching the North end of Andros we had 1 huge wahoo strike both of our lines, but not get hooked. This wahoo was easily the biggest I had seen up to this time. Later while ashore that evening some guys were cleaning an even bigger wahoo, the girth of this wahoo was probably close to 36” across, it was a fat beast. Upon departing Fresh creek we had had both lines in at sun-up and within moments the closepin outrigger clips on both rods went off, I throttled back to see a small marlin smacking both lures, but not getting hooked on either. He finally hit our 3^rd line which was a hand line a promptly broke off. While I was sad not to catch the marlin, and to lose an excellent lure, it was exciting to see a fish play with our “spread” the way I always read about in Marlin magazine. Unfortunately the rest of the day was an uneventful 6kn spinnaker ride to Highborne Cay, Exumas.

                Other Andros observations: fuel was in short supply. Everyone we met, our cruising guides and chart all showed that Fresh Creek had a fuel dock. There was no fuel dock. A powerboat really needed fuel and they ended up buying it out of 50 gallon drums some dude brought in a pickup from across the island. Morgans Bluff was also out of fuel. I am sure glad we weren’t in a powerboat. Besides that diesel prices are between $5.80 on up well over $6 a gallon. Surprisingly there are a ton of powerboats everywhere. Even the locals seem to have upgraded from 15’ whalers to 31’ contenders.

                Both Morgans Bluff and Fresh Creek had free and fast internet. At morgans Bluff the bar has wi-fi, we just had to ask for a password, and at Fresh Creek the marina had free wi-fi. In contrast nothing is free in the Exumas, $10 per day for 200mb of super slow internet at Staniel/ Sampson Cays.

Fresh Creek, Andros Island

We only spent a two days at Morgan's Bluff and continued south to Fresh Creek, where we spent another 3 days.  We tried anchoring inside the creek, but there were many problems with that idea.  The Mail Boats and water tankers used the dock space right across from the anchorage, there were already 2 tri-marans moored in the best spaces, and the current rips through the creek both ways.  After trying twice to Bahamian Moor, with a bow and a stern anchor, we were too concerned that we would be very close to aground at the low tide.  So, we dusted off our shoulders and went and anchored outside the channel behind a few deserted limestone cays.  The permanent live-aboards docked at the marina hollered to us that was a smart idea as we made our way out, but one of the best tries they've seen in a long time.

Luckily for us, the Lighthouse Marina was so friendly, they let us use all their services for free; water, wifi, garbage, SHOWERS.  Way cool.  These islands are completely different from the touristy spots.  Strangers are happy to see a new face in their town.  They stop and ask, "Where have you come from friend?  Would you like to know where the grocery store is?  Or where the best food in town is?  Glad to see you came for a visit, have a good day," and they wave goodbye.  That's it.  Kind and smiling faces, they didn't try to sell you anything, they even TOLD you where the best fishing spots were?!  Seriously?  What a wonderful place!

Fresh Creek was a very unique place.  We rode upcreek in the dinghy for miles.  We checked out a wreck of an old passenger ferry, found a Blue Hole (a fairly deep pocket of salt water), saw all kinds of birds, and stirred up some sand in the shallow bonefishing flats.  We also checked out the Androsia factory in Andros Island.  Androsia is a cloth made completely by hand using sponges and wax to imprint tropical patterns on brightly colored fabrics.

Here's a shot of the sponge stamps they use for the process.

Shout out to our good friends Steven and Kasee, who came by in Cape Coral to see the boat and send us away with a bottle of wine.  We enjoyed it with an apple pie, recipe courtesy of Matt's Grandmother Madeline in London, Canada, while reading the books given to us for Christmas by Matt's bother, Jon, in particular the pirate novel about Captain Morgan, Blue Waters.  It's a tough life being spoiled by such nice people!  Can't say enough how much we love and miss you all!

Bahama Breezes

It’s been great here!  We’re thoroughly enjoying the Bahamas and really not doing much of anything. 

I realize it’s been quite a while, but our time with the internet is consumed by weather reports and emails to friends and family.  In Fresh Creek I got distracted by a online chats with friends, but that just proves that just because we're gone, doesn't mean we don't sincerely miss you all.  I’m trying to get into the habit of writing things ahead of time and just taking it ashore with my jump drive.  The computer is a pain to lug around in a Ziploc bag.  Apart from getting really wonderful emails from home, it’s pretty nice not having a phone in your pocket or sitting in front of a computer.  It’s amazing how much of your day opens up when you aren't in front of the computer screen.   But of course, we do love it and without it we wouldn't be able to show you all our wonderful pictures and share our stories.

Our crossing to the Bahamas was really quite good.  We had Northerly winds in the gulf stream which made for a pretty bumpy ride but not too bad.  I have to confess that I lost it a little bit.  I can't cook when everything is flying around and I don't appreciate a struggle just to keep my rear on the toilet seat.  Just as I was about to curse the whole thing, the winds died and it became glass calm and we had to motor to the Northwest Passage.  

So calm it was hard to tell where the sea ended and the sky began.

We spent a night achored off the reef there in total calm.  It was good to get some good sleep and continue the ride to Morgan's Bluff, which was a much gentler ride.  Clearing into Customs was very quick and easy.  We dropped anchor in the bay and hoisted the Q for Quarantine yellow flag, and sent the Captain ashore with our boat documents.   Everyone else (me) remains on board until cleared.  Matt called Customs from the bar at the dinghy dock landing and had us cleared in short time.  The Bahamian officials didn't request a search of the boat, they were happy to simply take the check.  $300 gets you a six month cruising permit and fishing license.  From what we've heard about the Caribbean, even the other boats who have been around the world, all seem to agree, that the Bahamas offers more fish and beautiful coral than  any other place they've seen.  Many people are happy to cruise only in the Bahamas, but for us, it will be a good first stop, and hopefully we can come back and visit in the warmer months when the water temperature is a bit more inviting.

We visited Morgan's Cave, which was named after Sir/Captain Henry Morgan, the pirate who's raids against the Spanish New World for gold and silver and England will never be forgotten.  It was just a small cave, but I have no doubt that the man himself probably stood there sometime hundreds of years ago.  The Bahamas were a favorite spot for pirates with the intricate cays perfect for hiding out.  Not surprisingly, the area was also used later in history for rumrunning during prohibition and drug running during the 1980s.  Especially where we were in Andros Island, the largest but least populated, we saw several US Coast Guard helicopter fly-overs a day.  

A few more pics

Here's a few photos snapped from Griselda and Mike.  Thanks for the airhorn!

Dear Friends and Family,

Here we are again, wishing we had more time to write to everyone and say what’s going on.  We were quite busy the last few days getting ready, but we still haven’t left the Florida Keys.  It’s been a good deadline to be out of the USA by 01 Jan 2012.  Even with our hangovers we managed to leave Key West, but we’re currently riding out the strong winds brought on by the cold front today in Marathon. 

Having done the best we could preparing, we left Cape Coral Wed afternoon after saying goodbye to family and friends.  Matt’s mom came along for the trip down. 

Matt and his old Sailing Coach, Steve.

Matt and Edison Sailing Center Director, Ross Webb.  Ross sold us the boat back and help gear us up.

Our only friends from Nebraska John and Cindy stopped by with well wishes.

Everyone lined up on the dock to wave goodbye.

Matt saying goodbye to his Grandmother, we'll be sincerely missing her.

Sean and his dog Sunny escorting us out.

Here's a pic Sean took for us, of us sailing off into the sunset, which we love.

Upon anchoring in Key West, we had a celebratory toast (Thanks to Griselda and Mike for the champagne) and a fabulous steak dinner (Thanks to Gary and Sandy for the bottle of wine).  Exhausted and quite buzzed, we all enjoyed the sunset and a great sleep without the noise and vibration of the engine.   

Wandering around Key West was fun.  We did normal touristy things as well as picked up a bunch of things we needed.  Sunglasses, more line for the self steering, carb cleaner for the outboard, Ziploc bags (I quickly realized how absolutely vital these are on a boat), and tongs for grilling, water and fuel.

Highlights of the trip are of course, eating.  Our family’s favorite Half Shell Raw Bar on the marina has the most spectacular happy hour, 50 cent oysters and half off the whole bar!  We also had a good brunch with the roosters and chickens at Blue Heaven.  Florida lobster benedict was a bit pricey but delicious. 

Matt’s Mom Patricia took the Key West Express fast ferry back to Fort Myers on New Year’s Eve and we enjoyed the night around town with our friends Chris and Sara.  Considering happy hour started at 430, we were pretty lucky to make it to see the Pirate Wench drop from the mast at midnight at the Schooner Wharf.  2012, where does the time go?  Shortly thereafter it was a very quick dinghy ride back to the mothership where we stowed the outboard and got some much needed rest.  The alarm went off at 0630, like it does every morning and we were up and preparing to get underway.  We had kept up with the weather and so decided that Marathon would be a good point to jump off for the Bahamas after the cold front blew through.

So here we are, riding out the weather at the Marathon Marina OUTside anchorage.  We were 3^rd on the list for a mooring ball and the inside anchorage was entirely too crowded to be comfortable sleeping.  Matt is getting some rest, I’m baking some banana bread, and we are hoping that the weather won’t keep us from getting ashore and completing our chore list for tomorrow.  Dinghy Dockage is $13 a day/ $45 week.  They’ve got hot showers and free wifi.  We have some laundry to do, and a short grocery list.  It’s about a mile walk to Publix (which I’m REALLY going to miss) and a 5 mile walk to NAPA.  

I hope everyone had a wonderful and happy New Year, and that their resolution was to save money (so you can come visit us somewhere tropical)!!!